GALAPAGOS 2

DECEMBER 10:

This morning we visited Bartolomé Island. We ascended a boardwalk to the Pinnacle Rock overlook. 

LARGE PAINTED LOCUST

 The slope is dotted with the tiquilla plants, a gray brush which appears to be dead, is actually made of leaves covered with small gray hairs which help prevent moisture evaporation and reflect sunlight. The common name is crinkle mat, and is a member of the forget-me-not family. 

TEQUILLA PLANTS

 Some evidence of volcanic activity on the island:

We climbed to the peak of this island for a magnificent view of the island and Pinnacle Rock.

Pinnacle Rock is an immense spearheaded obelisk rising from the water surface.

PINNACLE ROCK

At the base of the rock , and along its volcanic ledges one can usually spot the only species of penguins living North of the equator. 

 As you can see there are two lovely white sand beaches. Upon returning to the ship a number of us went snorkeling here for the chance to swim with the Galapagos Penguin before lunch. This was my second venture at snorkeling, and it went much better with Reneé pulling me along as I held onto a life ring. However, I was not lucky enough to swim with the penguins. I enjoyed the adventure and was able to take a couple of photos of different fish species I saw underwater. 

While we had a delightful lunch the ship motored to Sullivan Bay on Santiago Island. Once again there was snorkeling, deep water, which was not for me. Later in the afternoon we went for a walk along the shoreline. The sea lions were both lounging and frolicking. 

They enjoyed lounging in the vegetation as well.

This vegetation looks a bit like iceplant but is a shoreline purslane. 

As daylight ended, we boarded the pangas and returned to the ship as we have to be off the islands by 1800. But before that I had to take in the colorful sally lightfoot crabs.

WHIMBREL

The shoreline views were of interest as well.

DECEMBER 11:

Overnight we moved to the shore of very small Rabida Island, located South of Santiago Island. This island is known for its red sand beaches which are a made of sand eroded from cinder cliffs to the west. The shoreline is rimmed with mangrove plants and saltbush. A walk along the beach was very pleasant with sea lions and pups, lava lizards, mockingbirds, shells, etc. 

OPUNTIA

PALO SANTO TREES FRAMING THE S.S. MARY ANNE

ARE WE RELATED?

BALANCING ACT

I participated in the snorkeling this morning, and was rewarded with seeing a stingray, and several varieties of fish.

DECK ACTION

MATE NANCY

MATE GEORGE

In the afternoon we visited Santa Cruz Island. 

 We visited Cerro Dragon Beach. We saw a number of marine iguanas, several shore birds, palo santo trees and opuntia cactus.

Marine iguanas are black and have a blunt face which is used to scrape food, seaweed  and algae off the rocks and ledges under water.

MARINE IGUANA SUNNING

MARINE IGUANA ENJOYING THE VIEW

OPUNTIA BLOSSOMS

GALAPAGOS MOCKINGBIRD

LAND IGUANA

WHITE-CHEEKED PINTAIL

SMALL LAGOON

MARINE IGUANA SWIMMING

MARINE IGUANA 

There was the possibility of seeing some flamingoes, but there were none to be seen. Along one of the beaches we saw a number of the colorful sally lightfoot crabs.

DECEMBER 12:

Overnight I was struck with “Montezuma’s Revenge” with several calls to the toilet. In the morning I reported it to our leaders and soon I was being shuffled off to the local hospital. The result was that I was diagnosed with dehydration, and given an I.V. to get me back on my feet. This was not a Mayo clinic facility. Outside was one of their wheelchairs. 

In the E.R. space there were several gurneys with thin sheet coverings which were not changed with each patient.

Reneé had called our ship and they sent over two clean sheets and a pillow case. When I went to the bathroom there was no seat cover on the toilet. All went well for me, and I was soon on my way back to the ship, 

where I slept most of the rest of the day away. The crew made me a delicious soup for lunch, and I was instructed to hydrate with juices, etc.

In the mean time George went off to the highlands of Santa Cruz Island to see the giant tortoises and visit the Darwin Research Center.

The following write up and photographs are by George:

December 12, 2018

 A refreshing start of the day with breakfast at 07:15 hours instead of the usual 05:15 start. Then instead of a wet landing ashore, we had a dry landing on Santa Cruz Island. Unfortunately Nancy was stricken with having to go too often to the commode and became dehydrated. The Captain of the vessel arranged to have her check in to the local hospital which turned out to be an adventure by itself. She was off the ship so fast that I was not aware of her absence and went looking for her.  I ran into the Captain who informed me that she was heading for shore with Renee and Sandra, the Park Ranger. After being taken care of, she returned to the ship and missed the day ashore.

Upon landing on Santa Cruz Island at Puerto Ayora, we encountered sea lions lounging and snoozing on benches at the landing site.  

LOUNGING SEA LIONS

A short bus ride took us into the highlands of the Island. Here the vegetation is lush due to the higher elevation and generally low clouds which results in more moisture.  We first went into a part of Galapagos National Park to see and walk through a Lava
Tunnel. 

These tunnels or lava tubes are formed by hot molten lava flowing

through an area. The outer surface of the molten lava stream is cooled faster and hardens while the interior continues to flow until it reaches the Earth surface. The end result is that a hollow tunnel or tube is left behind.

While walking about, we encountered wild tortoises. These 600 pound creatures roam free among the cattle that inhabit the local ranches in the highlands. 

Instead of returning to the ship for lunch, we had a light lunch at one of the ranches while we watched for tortoises, iguanas, and birds.

A COMFORTABLE PERCH?

After lunch we were driven back to Puerto Ayora where we first visited the Charles Darwin Research Station.  The first stop was in the Gift Shop where the main goal of our group was to look for souvenirs. “T” Shirts were probably the most sought after item. From the Gift Shop we ambled over to the Tortoise Rearing and Observation area. At this facility eggs are incubated, hatched and the young tortoises are reared until mature enough to be relocated to their native island in the Galapagos. 

       From the Research Station we walked back to the landing docks and the town shopping area. A very interesting and quite entertaining point of interest was the Fish Market. Here you

could purchase all kinds of fresh seafood but also be entertained by the resident beggars who were not necessarily homeless. They just like to hang out where the action is and hope for a hand out. 

GALAPAGOS 1

THURSDAY, DECEMBER 6:

Today George and I set off on a long planned trip to the Galapagos Islands. We had talked about doing this trip years ago, but had not pursued it. Finally in the Spring of 2017, I brought it up and then started to research traveling plans. A photography acquaintance was my final source with a highly recommended leader. The trip was booked the first week in May, 2017. 

After over a year of planning we were off! There had been medical issues to overcome, passports to update, inoculations, and of course flight plans. It was all worth it. 

We left San Diego in the afternoon of the 6^th flying out a bit early as there was a thunderstorm while we were at the airport which delayed earlier flights and I was able to get us on one of these flights to get us to San Francisco in plenty of time to get on our scheduled flight to Panama City and on to Guayquil, Ecuador. We enjoyed the experience of flying business class this evening.

ABOVE THE CLOUDS

APPROACHING PANAMA CITY

Entrance to the Panama Canal Area

PANAMA CITY 

Here We Come

In Guayaquil we were to be met at the airport and taken to our hotel. The ball was dropped so to speak and when we finally got to our hotel, they did not have us on their manifest!! After a welcome nap we went out to the nearby park and saw and photographed the local wildlife:

CATHEDRAL SQUARE 

All was eventually straightened out and our leaders, Reneé Bish and Peter Oxford were most apologetic. We enjoyed a quiet dinner in the Hotel before calling it a day as the next day we would be leaving the hotel at 0600!

SATURDAY, DECEMBER 8:

We were shuttled to the airport for our flight to the Galapagos Islands. The Islands are located about 620 miles to the West of main land Ecuador and straddle the equator.  We landed on Baltra Island which is a small island located just North of  Santa Cruz Island, and is considered the gateway to the Galapagos. The Galapagos Islands is a National Park and has strict regulations on visiting them. 

The weather here in early December is mild and generally dry. You still have to be aware that you are in the tropics and the effects of too much sun can be harmful – sunburn, and dehydration are to be considered at all times.

Our accommodations while visiting the Islands were on board the S. S. Mary Anne, a 216 foot three masted schooner. The crew was very hospitable, the cabins were small but nicely laid out, and public areas were comfortable and airy.

We arrived on the Mary Anne before lunch and quickly settled into our cabin before heading out on deck for lunch. 

S.S. MARY ANNE

After lunch we boarded pangas, small inflated boats used to travel from ship to shore, to explore Black Turtle Cove, located on the coast of Santa Cruz Island.  

PANGA

Here we see the mangroves which line the shore.

MANGROVE

 and see various birds: pelicans, blue footed boobies, lava herons, frigate birds,

BROWN PELICAN

BLUE-FOOTED BOOBY

LAVA HERON

STRAITED HERON

MAGNIFICENT FRIGATE BIRD

along with several varieties of sea turtles: 

sharks, rays,

SPOTTED EAGLE RAY

ON WATCH

SALLY LIGHTFOOT CRAB

 sea lions, and sally lightfoot crabs. This cove was quite different from other sites we will be visiting.

Upon our return to the ship we were initiated into the foot cleaning ritual. This involves rinsing off your feet, sandals, or boots. The purpose is to rinse off any sand, seeds, or other debris. This is to prevent the artificial transport of plant life from one island to another. It also helps to keep the decks clean.

Back on board the Mary Anne we enjoyed a little relaxation before a formal welcoming by our skipper and his crew. Before dinner we had a briefing on tomorrow’s activities by the Park Ranger.

Overnight we motored to Genovesa Island.

SUNDAY, DECEMBER 9:

Today we commenced the routine of early morning adventures. We started with breakfast at 0515, and departure from the Mary Anne at 0600. The reward for this early start is that we are the first on the island we are visiting, and of course the early morning light.

We were greeted first by a number of sea lions and pups lounging on the beach.

A DARWIN FINCH

As we walked along the beach and inland, we saw the red-footed boobies that nest in the mangroves. 

YOUNG FRIGATE BIRD

YELLOW-CROWNED NIGHT HERON

There were also young frigate birds, and a yellow finch. 

MAGNIFICENT FRIGATE BIRD

MAGNIFICENT FRIGATE BIRD

RED-BILLED TROPIC BIRD

Flying overhead were Frigate birds, and the red-billed tropic bird. The Galapagos Dove was also present.

GALAPAGOS DOVE

Before lunch we had our first chance to snorkel. George and I did not do well with this. George has  never had a good experience with snorkeling, and this venture did not go well for him. First our wet suits were too small and so it was a struggle to get into them. I also had a poor beginning as I had not had a chance to  practice at home, due to trying to recover from a serious groin injury. This took about two months of therapy, with no swimming. Our first snorkeling was very short lived.

After Lunch we had a little down time before we were off to climb Prince Phillip’s Steps and explore another area of the island. We saw and photographed the Nazca Booby.  

HERE IS A TREAT, SWEETY

NAZCA BOOBY

NAZCA BOOBY WITH EGG

The Nazca Boobies  build their nests right on the open ground with just a few sticks. As we were ascending the steps a Short-eared Owl was spotted. He was down in a crevasse below the trail. On our return he had moved up to the the handrail, and was not phased by our trampling along beside him.

SHORT-EARRED OWL

Genovesa Island lived up to its reputation “Island of Birds.”